Scones, financiers & madeleines: where to have afternoon tea in Paris

Cover photo: @lapuertaontheroad

It’s 4:30pm, that floating moment when Paris hesitates between the afternoon stretching on and the evening approaching. It’s teatime, a ritual we too often neglect, rushing as we are from one appointment to the next. Yet taking the time to sit down in front of a good scone, still warm, a financier that’s crisp to the bite, or a lemon madeleine, is a way of offering your day a pause. Paris is full of places where this moment becomes a small, precious parenthesis.

Whether you’re looking for a hidden tea room in the Marais, a coffee shop in the 9th where scones worthy of a London afternoon tea are served, or an artisan pastry shop that reinvents the madeleine, this selection guides you to the best spots for a successful teatime. We’ve combed the arrondissements, tasted, compared. Here’s the result.

Scones in Paris: a matter of texture and butter

What we look for in a good scone

A successful scone is first and foremost a matter of crumb. Not dry like a biscuit forgotten at the back of the cupboard, not dense like a failed muffin. The ideal texture is cloud-like: crumbly on the surface, soft inside, with that slight resistance when you break it in two. Then, the butter. No neutral oil, no margarine: real churned butter, which you can taste from the first bite. Some add chocolate chips, others go for dried fruit or candied orange. But above all, a scone must smell good. That smell of a still-warm oven, of flour that’s taken on its golden color.

The English have their strict codes: clotted cream, strawberry jam, impeccable service. In Paris, we free ourselves a bit from tradition. You’ll find savory scones with cheddar and rosemary, XXL versions filled with chestnut cream, matcha tea variations. What matters is that the result is good. No need to overdo it with three tiers of porcelain china if the scone itself is dry.

Marlette, rue des Martyrs: scones the way we like them

At Marlette, scones are one of the preparations we make ourselves, at the workshop on île de Ré. Two versions: plain (to spread with homemade jam) or savory bacon-and-cheese, for those who prefer a sweet-and-salty teatime snack. The crumb is crumbly without falling apart everywhere, the butter can be tasted without overpowering the rest. We serve them freshly warmed, with a cappuccino or a matcha latte if you lean toward wellness-oriented drinks.

What we particularly appreciate: no fuss. No Instagram-worthy toppings, no decoration that overshadows the taste. Just a good scone, a small plate, a table by the window if you’re lucky. Locals know this, and often stop by in the late afternoon to take away two or three before the oven turns off.

• Address: 51 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris
• Also available: 45 rue des Abbesses, 75018 Paris
• Teatime set: scone + hot drink
• No reservations at Marlette, except for groups in the afternoon: just come and see if there’s room

To discover other great addresses to try in the capital, take a look at our favorite restaurants in Paris, where you’ll find spots to extend the day after teatime.

Rose Bakery and other safe bets for English scones

Over in the Marais, Rose Bakery (also on rue des Martyrs, or rue de Turenne depending on the mood) remains a reference for those seeking the British cottage spirit transposed to Paris. The scones there are massive, almost intimidating, served with imported clotted cream and artisanal jam. The atmosphere leans toward a chic tea room without being stuffy. You’ll come across as many tourists seeking authenticity as Parisians who have made it their Sunday habit.

Other addresses to try if you’re in the area: Smith & Son (rue de Saintonge), which offers more compact scones, perfect for a light snack without weighing you down, and Claus (rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau), where the scone is part of a generous afternoon tea menu. Be careful though: some establishments serve scones that look more like overbaked muffins. Trust your instinct and don’t hesitate to ask if they’re homemade.

Financiers, madeleines & biscuits: the French stars of teatime

The financier, that little crunchy ingot

The financier is the opposite of the scone: no crumb, just a golden crust wrapping a soft almond center. When it comes out of the oven, it has that almost caramelized texture on the edges, that brown-butter smell that goes straight to your brain. Too often, you find it industrial, soft, with an aftertaste of low-grade almond powder. The good Parisian financier, the one we’re looking for, is crisp to the bite before melting.

At Sébastien Gaudard (rue des Martyrs, again, this neighborhood really does have it all), the financier is an institution. Classic rectangular shape, AOP butter, roasted almond powder. Nothing to say against it. You can have three without guilt: they’re small, elegant, and disappear in two bites. Their pistachio-raspberry version is a gem if you want some variety.

Another solid address: Fou de Pâtisserie (several locations across Paris), which offers signature financiers created by different chefs. The selection changes regularly, but you’ll always find an impeccable classic version AND, in our coffee shops to try for a well-deserved sweet break.

The madeleine: nostalgia and lemon

Talking about madeleines without mentioning Proust is almost a crime. But beyond the literary reference, the madeleine remains that comforting cake you dip into your tea, not caring at all about protocol. The classic lemon version dominates, but Paris has seen chocolate, chestnut honey, and orange blossom variations bloom. What makes the difference: a well-defined hump, an airy crumb, and that little hint of zest that lingers on the palate.

At À la Mère de Famille (several historic shops), the madeleines are sold in kraft paper bags, just like in the old days. They’ll never look impressive on Instagram, but they have that soft texture and fresh-butter scent that bring back childhood memories. Perfect to take along for teatime at the office or in a public garden.

Pain de Sucre (rue de Rambuteau) offers a more sophisticated version, with an XXL madeleine filled with hazelnut praline. Less childlike, more indulgent. Perfect if you want to turn teatime into a slightly more festive moment. Warning: one is plenty, they’re generously sized.

Cookies, brownies and other sweet temptations at Marlette

Back to Marlette, because scones aren’t the only stars of teatime there. The cookies (chocolate-sesame chips or chocolate-walnut) have that texture you desperately search for elsewhere: crisp on the edges, soft in the center, with real chips that melt. No overly refined white flour, no sugar that grates on your teeth. Just a good cookie, the way they used to be made before everything became standardized.

The chocolate fondant (careful, it’s a melting center, not a molten one, the difference matters) is also worth a detour: fleur de sel from île de Ré, chocolate that doesn’t play the prima donna, just the right amount of sugar. We often order it with a flat white to balance things out. The pecan brownie, meanwhile, embraces its dense, generous side. One slice is enough for two if you’re not too hungry.

• Organic preparations: all Marlette pastry preparations (cookies, fondants, brownies, scones) are organic. The savory dishes served at the café are not, we keep our feet on the ground.
• Production: île de Ré, where it all began in 2010
• Available at both Parisian cafés: Martyrs and Abbesses

If you want to extend the gourmet stroll, discover the vibe of our coffee shops, where teatime fits into a broader philosophy of urban slowing down.

Parisian tea rooms: the art of old-fashioned teatime

Angelina, the unbeatable classic (and proud of it)

It’s impossible to talk about teatime in Paris without mentioning Angelina, rue de Rivoli. Yes, it’s touristy. Yes, there’s often a line. Yes, the old-fashioned hot chocolate is overpriced. But it remains unbeatable. Thick as cream, served with a mountain of whipped cream, accompanied by the famous mont-blanc that made the house’s reputation. You don’t go there for an intimate atmosphere, you go to check a box and tell yourself you’ve tasted the legend.

If you want to avoid the crowds, try the Grands Magasins annex (at Printemps Haussmann): same menu, fewer people, a stunning view over the Parisian rooftops. Teatime there is almost as good, and you’ll avoid waiting in line for forty minutes.

Carette, place des Vosges: the terrace that changes everything

Carette is the tea room where you come as much for the view as for the pastries. The madeleines are decent, the financiers too, but it’s mainly the terrace on place des Vosges that justifies the trip. Settling in there on a sunny Wednesday afternoon, ordering a coffee and a slice of mille-feuille, watching passersby stroll under the arcades: that’s a Parisian teatime in all its splendor. Service can be a bit slow at times, but you’re not in a hurry. That’s the whole point.

Another Carette worth trying if you’re near Trocadéro: same spirit, same quality, with a view of the Eiffel Tower as a bonus. Here too, you come for the experience as much as for the teatime itself.

Ladurée: between kitsch and excellence

Ladurée is complicated. On one hand, the macarons are impeccable (even if you can argue about the price). On the other hand, the atmosphere leans frankly toward a Barbie-doll-meets-Versailles decor. The gilding, the chandeliers, the embroidered tablecloths: it’s all a bit much. But the financiers are excellent, the madeleines too, and the Marie-Antoinette tea (yes, that’s really its name) remains a must-try if you like floral infusions.

We’d recommend the rue Bonaparte shop (Saint-Germain) rather than the one on the Champs-Élysées, which is much calmer. You can have your teatime there without being jostled by a horde of tourists on the hunt for the perfect macaron for their story.

Neighborhood by neighborhood: where to have teatime depending on your stroll

The 9th arrondissement: Martyrs and its gourmet treasures

Rue des Martyrs is a bit like the backbone of Parisian teatime. Starting from the Notre-Dame-de-Lorette metro and heading up toward Montmartre, you’ll pass about ten addresses worth stopping at. Marlette (at number 51), Rose Bakery (at number 46), Sébastien Gaudard (at number 22), not to mention Popelini for cream puffs and Mesdemoiselles for filled madeleines.

The advantage of the neighborhood: you can spend the whole afternoon there, alternating between vintage shops, independent bookstores, and sweet breaks. Teatime becomes an excuse for strolling, and that’s exactly how it should be.

Montmartre and the 18th: Abbesses, Lepic, and secret terraces

The 18th is the Paris we love: less polished, more alive. At Marlette Abbesses (45 rue des Abbesses), teatime takes on the feel of a neighborhood break. You’ll come across neighbors, regulars who come for their Wednesday scones, couples settling in for a hot chocolate and a slice of fondant. The pancakes (available only at this location, not on rue des Martyrs) also make a great XXL teatime if you skipped lunch.

Heading up toward rue Lepic, stop by Arnaud Delmontel: his pistachio-morello cherry financiers are worth the detour, as are his white chocolate and cranberry cookies. A bit further up, Coquelicot (rue des Abbesses) offers seasonal fruit tarts, perfect for a lighter teatime.

The Marais: between classics and hidden gems

The Marais is the ideal playground for anyone who loves multiplying teatime stops. Start with Café Pinson (rue du Forez) if you’re leaning healthy: spelt flour cookies, gluten-free cakes, plant-based drinks. Continue at Berthillon (île Saint-Louis) for an artisan ice cream, technically not a teatime treat, but who cares. Finish at Carette on place des Vosges for a final coffee.

The Marais is also home to L’Éclair de Génie (several shops), where éclairs become an excuse for every kind of daring flavor: coffee-tonka, yuzu-raspberry, salted butter caramel. Not the most reasonable teatime, but sometimes you just want a stroke of genius.

Left Bank: Saint-Germain, Odéon, and the institutions

On the Left Bank, teatime is often enjoyed on a terrace. Ladurée Bonaparte, Pierre Hermé rue Bonaparte, Café de Flore (overpriced but legendary): all addresses where people come as much to see and be seen as to eat. Pierre Hermé‘s financiers are remarkable, especially the Infiniment Vanille version. His lemon madeleines too.

For a more relaxed experience, head to Odette (rue Galande), a temple of cream puffs. Not a scone, not a financier, but these little crunchy, generously filled puffs make for a perfect teatime. The line can be long on weekends, but it moves quickly.

Frequently asked questions

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