Rue des Abbesses is the street that runs diagonally through Montmartre, from place des Abbesses to boulevard de Clichy. You’ll spot strollers, tourists looking for the Wall of Love, neighbors popping out for their bread. And above all, you’ll find a concentration of great food addresses that makes the 18th arrondissement a neighborhood people come to eat in, not just visit.
In the morning, low light sweeps across the façades. The terraces fill up from 9am. Regulars have their table, their coffee, their server who knows their first name. This street isn’t a backdrop, it’s a place to live, a stretch of Paris where people take the time to sit down.
The coffee shops on rue des Abbesses
Marlette, 45 rue des Abbesses
At number 45, Marlette occupies a bright corner spot. Opened in 2025, this second café from the brand (after the one on rue des Martyrs) has settled into the neighborhood. People come here for Saturday brunch, weekday lunch, or a 4pm coffee when they need a break.
The pancakes are only available here, not on rue des Martyrs. They arrive stacked, fluffy, with maple syrup and seasonal fruit. The scrambled eggs are freshly made, served with toast and milk. The avocado toast remains a safe bet. The savory menu changes depending on deliveries: seasonal dishes, salads, sandwiches. Nothing industrial, everything is made in-house.
💡 Our tip
The pastry preparations (organic chocolate-sesame chip cookies, chocolate fondant with a molten fleur de sel from Île de Ré center, pecan brownie, scones, cinnamon rolls) are available to take away. A good idea for an impromptu afternoon snack or a dessert brought home.
The coffee comes from small partner roasters. Cappuccino, latte, flat white: the classics done well. Drinks that stand out: the Ube latte (colorful, lightly sweet), the Matcha latte, the Chai latte. Fresh juices change with the season. No endless list, just enough to make you want to come back.
During brunch hours (morning and midday), reservations aren’t taken: you simply stop by to see if there’s room. For a group, reservations from 3pm to 6pm can be made at reservation@marlette.fr. Birthdays, book clubs, painting clubs, team meetings: this time slot welcomes all kinds of gatherings, including professional ones. Partial privatization is possible for 10 to 15 people.
Soul Kitchen, facing square Jehan-Rictus
A little further up, Soul Kitchen draws neighborhood regulars. Specialty coffee, relaxed atmosphere, a menu that blends French classics with American influences. Weekend brunches are often fully booked, so it’s best to arrive early or be ready to wait a bit on the square.
The banana bread is one of the must-haves. The savory bowls are popular with vegetarians. Service is quick without feeling rushed. This spot works well for a lunch with friends or a relaxed coffee after a stroll through Montmartre.
✅ Worth remembering
Rue des Abbesses concentrates several specialty coffee shops. Each has its own style, its own crowd, its own time of day. The advantage of the neighborhood: you can try several without walking more than 200 meters.
Café Lomi, a detour via rue Marcadet
Technically off rue des Abbesses, but a 10-minute walk away. Lomi roasts its own coffee, and you can tell the difference. The space is large, bright, with rough wooden tables and real attention paid to the bean. The baristas know their craft. If coffee really matters to you, the detour is worth it.
The drinks menu changes depending on deliveries. Gentle brewing methods (V60, Chemex) let you taste the coffees in ways other than espresso. Brunch is lighter than at Marlette, focused on toasts, bowls, and homemade pastries. Calm atmosphere on weekdays, lively on weekends.
Bakeries and pastry shops not to miss
Boulangerie Joséphine, 45 rue Lepic
At the corner of rue des Abbesses and rue Lepic, Joséphine is one of those Parisian bakeries where people come to buy their bread every day. The traditional baguette is golden, crispy, with an airy crumb. The croissants smell of butter as soon as you push open the door.
The pastries disappear quickly in the morning. Special breads (with grains, sourdough, walnuts) keep well. Fruit tarts fill the window display in the afternoon. Nothing groundbreaking, just a good neighborhood bakery, with fresh products and solid know-how.
Sébastien Gaudard, rue des Martyrs (a short walk away)
A little further down, on rue des Martyrs (the 18th’s other food-loving street), Sébastien Gaudard offers classic pastries with a twist. The Paris-Brest, the Saint-Honoré, the lemon tart: traditional recipes with modern execution. Prices are high, but you’re paying for the pastry chef’s craft, the quality of the ingredients, the visual refinement.
The spot works well for an afternoon treat with friends or a dessert brought to a dinner. The chocolates and confectionery make good gifts. The tea room in the back allows you to sit and enjoy on-site. Reservations recommended on weekends.
The good addresses are concentrated between Abbesses station and boulevard de Clichy. No need to look far: the street is 500 meters long.
Weekend brunches draw crowds. It’s best to arrive before 11am or be ready to wait. On weekdays, tables free up more easily.
The neighborhood lends itself well to a gourmet stroll: coffee at Marlette, bread at Joséphine, pastry at Gaudard. You build your own route according to your cravings.
Grenier à Pain, several locations in the 18th
Grenier à Pain has opened several bakeries in the 18th arrondissement of Paris. The closest one to rue des Abbesses is on rue Caulaincourt. Natural sourdough bread, fougasses, brioches: a wide range, well-made products. The lunchtime sandwiches (ham and butter, chicken with crudités) are made with the house’s own breads.
The advantage: extended opening hours. You can pick up bread late in the evening or early in the morning. Prices remain affordable despite the quality. A reliable choice for locals.
Restaurants and bistros in the Montmartre neighborhood
Le Boudoir, rue Germain-Pilon
A few steps from rue des Abbesses, Le Boudoir occupies a small, intimate dining room. The menu changes often: market fish, seasonal meat, roasted vegetables. Cooking is precise, seasoning balanced. Service is attentive without being intrusive.
Prices match a quality Parisian bistro. Reservations strongly recommended, as the spot is small and popular with locals. In the evening, the atmosphere is hushed, conversations carry. A good choice for a dinner for two or a meal with friends who enjoy good food.
La Mascotte, place des Abbesses
A classic brasserie, terrace on the square, menu of seafood and grilled meats. La Mascotte has been around for a long time, a local institution, with regulars at the counter and tourists on the terrace. The oysters are fresh, the seafood platter generous. The steak and fries remains a safe bet.
Efficient service, unpretentious setting. Prices are reasonable for a Parisian brasserie with a terrace. The spot works well for a quick lunch or an impromptu dinner. No need to book on weekdays, but on weekends, it’s best to call ahead.
⚠️ Keep in mind
The neighborhood draws large crowds on weekends. The streets are lively, the terraces packed. If you’re looking for quiet, favor weekday mornings or late afternoons.
Le Refuge des Fondus, rue des Trois-Frères
An unusual concept: wine is served in baby bottles, and Savoyard fondue is eaten at tightly packed wooden tables. The atmosphere is festive, loud, uninhibited. Not a spot for a romantic dinner, but perfect for an evening out with friends who want to laugh.
The menu is simple: cheese fondue or beef fondue, with unlimited wine. Prices are gentle for Paris. Reservations required, the place is small and always full. You go for the experience, not the fine dining.
Little extras in the neighborhood
The market on rue Lepic
Every morning except Monday, rue Lepic hosts a food market. Fruit, vegetables, cheese, cured meats: stalls line both sides of the street. Prices are fair, quality is there. Locals do their shopping here while chatting with the vendors.
The market climbs up toward the Moulin de la Galette. You’ll spot strollers, neighbors, locals taking their time. It’s another side of Montmartre, the everyday one, far from the tourist routes. To learn more about Paris’s best food finds, you can explore other neighborhoods on foot.
Square Jehan-Rictus
This small public garden facing Abbesses metro station offers a haven of calm. A few benches, trees, a lawn where children play. Parisians settle in here with a coffee to go, a book, a sandwich. The Wall of Love draws tourists, but the rest of the square remains peaceful.
It’s a good spot to catch your breath between two visits or two addresses. You’ll spot moms with strollers, students studying, couples kissing. An ordinary piece of Paris, in the middle of the buzz of Montmartre.
| 🕐 Time | 💡 Recommended spot |
|---|---|
| Breakfast (8am-10am) | Marlette for a specialty coffee and a homemade pastry preparation (cookie, fondant, scone) |
| Weekend brunch (10am-2pm) | Marlette (pancakes, scrambled eggs, avocado toast) or Soul Kitchen |
| Weekday lunch (12pm-2pm) | Marlette (seasonal dishes, salads, sandwiches) or Le Boudoir |
| Afternoon snack (3pm-6pm) | Sébastien Gaudard for a refined pastry, or Marlette (reservations possible for groups) |
| Dinner | Le Boudoir (bistro cuisine) or La Mascotte (brasserie) |
Abbesses station and its architecture
The Abbesses metro entrance, designed by Hector Guimard, is one of the last Art Nouveau entrances in Paris. The station itself is the deepest in the Parisian network: 36 meters underground, 285 steps. The elevator saves you from climbing them. But the spiral staircase is worth a look for the curious.
Above ground, place des Abbesses serves as a meeting point. People arrange to meet here before going off to brunch, grab a coffee, or wander the neighborhood. The colorful façades, the small cobbled streets, the stairs climbing up toward the Sacré-Cœur: Montmartre begins here.
Frequently asked questions
Where can I brunch on rue des Abbesses without a reservation?
At Marlette, 45 rue des Abbesses, reservations aren’t taken during brunch hours (morning and midday). You simply stop by to see if there’s room. On weekends, it’s best to arrive before 11am to avoid waiting. On weekdays, tables free up more easily. Pancakes, scrambled eggs and avocado toast are served throughout service.
Which specialty coffee shop should I choose in the Abbesses neighborhood?
Marlette works with small partner roasters and offers cappuccino, latte, flat white, as well as original drinks like the Ube latte, the Matcha latte and the Chai latte. Soul Kitchen, a bit further up the street, also focuses on specialty coffee in a relaxed atmosphere. Lomi, on rue Marcadet (a 10-minute walk), roasts its own coffee and offers gentle brewing methods.
Where can I find good bread near rue des Abbesses?
Boulangerie Joséphine, at the corner of rue des Abbesses and rue Lepic, offers traditional baguettes, croissants and fresh pastries every day. Grenier à Pain, on rue Caulaincourt, offers a wide range including natural sourdough bread, fougasses and brioches. Both spots keep extended hours and affordable prices.
Can you reserve a table for a group at Marlette?
Reservations are only possible from 3pm to 6pm, by writing to reservation@marlette.fr. This time slot welcomes groups, birthdays, book clubs, painting clubs and team meetings. Partial privatization for 10 to 15 people is possible on rue des Martyrs. Outside this time slot, you simply come by to see if there’s room.
Which restaurant should I choose for dinner on rue des Abbesses?
Le Boudoir, on rue Germain-Pilon, offers thoughtful bistro cuisine with market fish and seasonal meat. Reservations strongly recommended. La Mascotte, on place des Abbesses, offers a classic brasserie menu (seafood, steak and fries) with a terrace. Le Refuge des Fondues, on rue des Trois-Frères, focuses on Savoyard fondue in a festive, uninhibited atmosphere.
What pastry preparations can I take away from Marlette?
All of Marlette’s pastry preparations are available to take away: chocolate-sesame or chocolate-walnut chip cookies, chocolate fondant with a molten fleur de sel from Île de Ré center, pecan brownie, marbled cake, scones, cinnamon rolls, Gingerman biscuits, waffles and babka. These recipes are made in-house and sold at the café.
{“@context”:”https://schema.org”,”@type”:”FAQPage”,”mainEntity”:[{“@type”:”Question”,”name”:”Where can I brunch on rue des Abbesses without a reservation?”,”acceptedAnswer”:{“@type”:”Answer”,”text”:”At Marlette, 45 rue des Abbesses, reservations aren’t taken during brunch hours (morning and midday). You simply stop by to see if there’s room. On weekends, it’s best to arrive before 11am to avoid waiting. On weekdays, tables free up more easily. Pancakes, scrambled eggs and avocado toast are served throughout service.”}},{“@type”:”Question”,”name”:”Which specialty coffee shop should I choose in the Abbesses neighborhood?”,”acceptedAnswer”:{“@type”:”Answer”,”text”:”Marlette works with small partner roasters and offers cappuccino, latte, flat white, as well as original drinks like the Ube latte, the Matcha latte and the Chai latte. Soul Kitchen, a bit further up the street, also focuses on specialty coffee in a relaxed atmosphere. Lomi, on rue Marcadet (a 10-minute walk), roasts its own coffee and offers gentle brewing methods.”}},{“@type”:”Question”,”name”:”Where can I find good bread near rue des Abbesses?”,”acceptedAnswer”:{“@type”:”Answer”,”text”:”Boulangerie Joséphine, at the corner of rue des Abbesses and rue Lepic, offers traditional baguettes, croissants and fresh pastries every day. Grenier à Pain, on rue Caulaincourt, offers a wide range including natural sourdough bread, fougasses and brioches. Both spots keep extended hours and affordable prices.”}},{“@type”:”Question”,”name”:”Can you reserve a table for a group at Marlette?”,”acceptedAnswer”:{“@type”:”Answer”,”text”:”Reservations are only possible from 3pm to 6pm, by writing to reservation@marlette.fr. This time slot welcomes groups, birthdays, book clubs, painting clubs and team meetings. Partial privatization for 10 to 15 people is possible on rue des Martyrs. Outside this time slot, you simply come by to see if there’s room.”}},{“@type”:”Question”,”name”:”Which restaurant should I choose for dinner on rue des Abbesses?”,”acceptedAnswer”:{“@type”:”Answer”,”text”:”Le Boudoir, on rue Germain-Pilon, offers thoughtful bistro cuisine with market fish and seasonal meat. Reservations strongly recommended. La Mascotte, on place des Abbesses, offers a classic brasserie menu (seafood, steak and fries) with a terrace. Le Refuge des Fondues, on rue des Trois-Frères, focuses on Savoyard fondue in a festive, uninhibited atmosphere.”}},{“@type”:”Question”,”name”:”What pastry preparations can I take away from Marlette?”,”acceptedAnswer”:{“@type”:”Answer”,”text”:”All of Marlette’s pastry preparations are available to take away: chocolate-sesame or chocolate-walnut chip cookies, chocolate fondant with a molten fleur de sel from Île de Ré center, pecan brownie, marbled cake, scones, cinnamon rolls, Gingerman biscuits, waffles and babka. These recipes are made in-house and sold at the café. { “@context”: “https://schema.org”, “@type”: “FAQPage”, “mainEntity”: [ { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “Where can I brunch on rue des Abbesses without a reservation?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “At Marlette, 45 rue des Abbesses, reservations aren’t taken during brunch hours (morning and midday). You simply stop by to see if there’s room. On weekends, it’s best to arrive before 11am to avoid waiting. On weekdays, tables free up more easily. Pancakes, scrambled eggs and avocado toast are served throughout service.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “Which specialty coffee shop should I choose in the Abbesses neighborhood?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “Marlette works with small partner roasters and offers cappuccino, latte, flat white, as well as original drinks like the Ube latte, the Matcha latte and the Chai latte. Soul Kitchen, a bit further up the street, also focuses on specialty coffee in a relaxed atmosphere. Lomi, on rue Marcadet (a 10-minute walk), roasts its own coffee and offers gentle brewing methods.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “Where can I find good bread near rue des Abbesses?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “Boulangerie Joséphine, at the corner of rue des Abbesses and rue Lepic, offers traditional baguettes, croissants and fresh pastries every day. Grenier à Pain, on rue Caulaincourt, offers a wide range including natural sourdough bread, fougasses and brioches. Both spots keep extended hours and affordable prices.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “Can you reserve a table for a group at Marlette?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “Reservations are only possible from 3pm to 6pm, by writing to reservation@marlette.fr. This time slot welcomes groups, birthdays, book clubs, painting clubs and team meetings. Partial privatization for 10 to 15 people is possible on rue des Martyrs. Outside this time slot, you simply come by to see if there’s room.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “Which restaurant should I choose for dinner on rue des Abbesses?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “Le Boudoir, on rue Germain-Pilon, offers thoughtful bistro cuisine with market fish and seasonal meat. Reservations strongly recommended. La Mascotte, on place des Abbesses, offers a classic brasserie menu (seafood, steak and fries) with a terrace. Le Refuge des Fondues, on rue des Trois-Frères, focuses on Savoyard fondue in a festive, uninhibited atmosphere.” } }, { “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “What pastry preparations can I take away from Marlette?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “All of Marlette’s pastry preparations are available to take away: chocolate-sesame or chocolate-walnut chip cookies, chocolate fondant with a molten fleur de sel from Île de Ré center, pecan brownie, marbled cake, scones, cinnamon rolls, Gingerman biscuits, waffles and babka. These recipes are made in-house and sold at the café.” } } ] }”}}]}
